What is your best travel memory?
Patagonia, Argentina. I’ve been there several times and every time I have the feeling that it is a real paradise on Earth. All those beautiful lakes and mountains…
Simply because I love travelling, and also because I really like meeting new people — something that travel definitely opens you up to. Also, back in communist times, it was very difficult to travel beyond the Polish border, so to travel, I started to study geography and tourism. Finally I became a guide, a tour leader, and a WFTGA (World Federation of Tourist Guide Associations) national trainer.
I love the feeling of togetherness that Urban Adventures upholds. Even though we’re spread out all over the world, it’s like working with a close-knit family. And of course, unique people connected by the same idea of offering responsible tourism in a local way. It is a great feeling to find similar people around the globe despite so many cultural differences.
I’m between Buenos Aires and Barcelona. In both cities, I have a feeling of being part of the place. I don’t feel like a stranger.
Take the time to explore Krakow slowly — every corner has its own story and there are plenty of hidden places where only locals go. If you just see all the “must-see” places, you won’t see the real city.
Kraków
Get cultured? Italy.
Escape? Argentina.
Eat amazing food? Mexico.
See some wildlife? Venezuela.
Get some sun? Cuba.
Enjoy the great outdoors? Argentina.
Taking a trip to Krakow? Why not discover the city from a local perspective on one of our Krakow tours!
It’s beer o’clock somewhere: Poland’s best beer festivalsWhat’s better than drinking beer? How about celebrating beer? There are plenty of places around the globe that turn our favourite beverage into full-on parties; Oktoberfest in Munich is of course the big one, but there’s also lesser known ones in almost every destination you can think of! There’s Pilsner Fest near Prague, the Craft Beer Festival in New York City, La Paris Beer Week, and Toronto Beer Week. It’s always Beer O’Clock somewhere, right?
In Poland, there are three annual events that every Polish beer lover looks forward to, all of them in or near Krakow and dedicated to celebrating the best local beers. If you’re a beer fan with Krakow in your travel plans, get yourself to one of these awesome Polish beer festivals!
Do you know your Polish beers? One of these is not like the others.
Krakow Beer Festival (Krakowski Festiwal Piwa)
Late May. This is one of the biggest beer events in Poland, started five years ago to promote original Polish regional beers, as well as to educate beer fans about traditional brewing techniques. During the festival, participants can sample about 40 different types of beer, some of them with memorable names like the Black Cat or the Bison.
Birofilia Festival at Żywiec Brewery
Third weekend of June. The program of this festival near Krakow includes beer contests as well as brewing demonstrations and tours of the great Żywiec Brewery Museum. Local guides take visitors travelling back in time as they learn about the interesting history of the home of Poland’s most famous beer: Żywiec.
Krakow Wreaths Festival (Krakowski Festiwal Wianki)
June 21. This holiday is named after the pre-Christian tradition of making wreaths and celebrating summer solstice, the longest day of the year — but it’s also a perfect time for beer tasting! In Krakow, breweries are among main sponsors of this huge event, and beer is available all night long. What could be more pleasant then drinking cold beer on the bank of the Vistula River on a hot summer’s night?!
Thirsty for Krakow now? We’ve got you covered!
Krakow cafés with a viewIced coffee? Or maybe some local beer in a traditional mug? All while taking in incredible city views? Sounds like a great afternoon to us!
Locals in Krakow know that drinks, meals, and sweet snacks taste best when they’re enjoyed with a view, which is why the city’s got a few cafés that serve a dose of scenery along with their menu.
Located on Sw. Tomasz Str., on the Music Academy School terrace.
Cafe U Romana is a place for anyone who’s curious to get a little taste of communist times. The café is on the 7th floor, and the minimalist approach means a small menu that’s entirely in Polish. Payment is cash only and the service is cafeteria-style. But the city view is simply stunning and the place has a vintage throw-back Soviet vibe.
Located right in the National Museum of Sukiennice (Cloth Hall), but you don’t have to pay the entrance fee to access the terrace.
Countless umbrellas protect you from sunshine. The coffee and sweets are among the best. And the view is fantastic. Everything in the city can be seen from a different perspective at Cafe Pasja: the whole of Main Square with Mariacka Basilica, St. Wojciech Church, and the Adam Mickiewicz monument (he is considered one of the greatest poets of Polish literature). Snap some Instagram-worthy photos of mascarons and all the other interesting architectural details of Sukiennice.
Located on Szczepanska Str.
Take an elevator to the sixth floor of Stary Hotel to admire amazing city panoramas from Sky Bar. You can spot the roofs of old townhouses with their picturesque chimneys, part of Main Square, and even Szczepanski Square with the Art Palace. Best culinary pick? Sky Bar’s tasty coffee, but they also serve many alcohol-based options. The only downside of this place is the lack of umbrellas (but who would mind if the weather is just right?).
Located on the roof of the Jewish Culture Center at Meiselsa 17.
Garden Mleczarnia is quite unusual in that it’s a bit hard to find despite being in a neighbourhood of bars, restaurants, and dozens of cafés. Yet hardly anyone suspects that this charming place is just around the corner — without any hints, it would be a challenge to spot this gem. But once you’re up here, a view of the Kazimierz district (the Jewish quarter) is right in front of you. If the garden and view aren’t enough for you, just add in the best nut cake in Krakow (or possibly even the world).
Hungry for Krakow? Let us show you around the city like a local!
Downtown Krakow markets worth exploringIn Krakow, markets are more than just places to shop for groceries — they’re places to meet up with friends, to catch up on gossip, to eat, and to discover great Polish treats, products, and more. They’ve also shaped much of Krakow’s history, and that’s why you can’t visit this city without exploring at least one of the city’s markets. These three, all located within the city centre, are definitely worthy of a a visit.
Kleparz is the oldest marketplace in Krakow, about a 10-minute walk from the Main Square (Rynek Główny), at the corner of Slawkowska Street. The neighbourhood of Kleparz used to be its own city, but today has been amalgamated into Krakow and the market is one of the most popular places for locals to shop.
The name dates back to medieval times, referring to “klepac” (beat/bump), which today translates to “making a business deal as a result of good negotiation.” In those days, it was mainly horses that were sold in the market and a “klepanie” deal could be signed with a simple high five or by touching the animal’s rear end.
The Kleparz market is open every day except Sunday, and the best time to come is in the early mornings, when farmers arrive to sell local produce, including the famous mountain cheeses oscypek and bundz, as well as pickled cucumbers, sauerkraut, homemade pies, and thousands of other choices. You can also find specialties from Italian, Spanish, Greek, Turkish, and Hungarian kitchens, thanks to the many sellers who hail from these countries and contribute to the local multicultural character of Krakow.
Small shops offering a variety of products bring almost-forgotten-in-time recipes back to life, and for Poles and tourists alike, this is a paradise of colourful folklore. On Saturdays, local musicians play in the market.
“Targowac” has a lot of meanings in Polish: it means negotiating the price and coming an agreement, as well as the overall experience of simply buying and selling. Origin of hall name (located close to main train station) gives perfect explanation to what could be purchased here: from groceries, flowers, herbs, domestic articles all the way to clothing. On Sundays, you can witness typical flea market where treasure hunters maybe overwhelmed with originality of products.
You can expect to find authentic antiques here, everything from clocks to paintings to candle holders, and occasionally even old clothing, shoes, torn books, and cassette recordings delivered straight from PRL communist times. The biggest attraction, however, is blue Nyska car, from where you can purchase fried sausages and chemically coloured orangeade that tastes like childhood.
And because the market is located between the train station and the Opera House, it’s a great spot for people-watching — everyone from gentlemen in suits and ladies in dresses, to travellers lugging backpacks and train station staff. The overall atmosphere is best expressed in the Polish movie Angel in Krakow by A. Więcek. I would highly recommend both: Polish fried sausages and the movie!
The name of this market comes from New Square (Plac Nowy) and the Jewish community in the Kazimierz district. The market has long catered to Orthodox Jews, and in the early 19th century, it served primarily as a poultry slaughterhouse. But times have changed and today the market is the centre of the entertainment district. At night, join the colourful crowds hopping from place to place and grab a local beer or browse the vodka selections. For food, fried sausage and cheese are popular treats around here.
For some local flavour, order a zapiekanka – a very popular sandwich made from an elongated baguette topped with mushrooms, cheese, and anything else you want, or stop into one of the many small restaurants or coffee shops in the area.
On Sundays there’s a small flea market selling both new and used clothes, as well as cosmetics and sweets.
The best restaurants in KrakowKrakow may not be on every foodie’s list as a place to seek out a great culinary experience, but those who are willing to wander will be greatly rewarded. The city is bursting with a variety of restaurants ranging from high-end hotspots to local, family-run cafés serving up traditional Polish dishes. International fare isn’t hard to find either, as are healthy and veggie options. Also, if you’re looking for great coffee, you won’t be short of choices.
Chimera has captured the hearts of Krakow’s salad lovers. With an amazing salad bar in their garden, you can get an affordable, nutritious lunch that’s also super quick. In addition, you’ll immediately notice after entering the gate that the place is beautifully decorated. Throughout the day you can nosh on the menu of the day (there’s always a few different options to choose from), and in the evening dine on a wonderful selection of Polish dishes. On weekends, quite often there are live music performances, and sometimes even theatre performances — all the more reason to stay and grab a bite to eat!
Address: św. Anny 3, Kraków, Poland.
Phone number: +48 12 292 12 12
This friendly restaurant has a large garden, interesting interiors, and friendly, professional service. For lunch, we recommend trying the pumpkin soup and one of the homemade pasta dishes. If you’re looking to get your daily fruits or veggies, the juices are absolutely delicious. The highlight of Dynia is undoubtedly the breakfast — and the best part is that it’s served till midday! Brunch anyone?
Address: Krupnicza 20, 31-123 Kraków, Poland.
Phone number: +48 12 430 08 38
This small bar, despite only being on the city’s culinary map for a few months, has already garnered rave reviews. But as they only offering soups, many of you might be hesitant at first. Soup? Just soup? Why? If you’re not particularly fond of soup we promise that this will be the place to convert you and bring you over to the dark side (or the soup-ier side at least!). Every day you’ll find different two kinds of soup: one being more traditional and very Polish (usually tomato-based, or zurek), and the other more international (Moroccan, African, Asian, etc.). Minimal seating and simple decor cater towards those who like their food with no frills — simple, delicious, and quick.
Address: Rajska 20, 33-332 Kraków, Poland.
Phone number: +48 692 711 352
Polakowski is a self-service bar with strong ties to tradition. If you’re looking for some hearty, authentic Polish dishes, this is the place to visit. The walls are decorated with jars of sauerkraut and pickles — two things that true Poles cannot imagine their lives without! The atmosphere is rather cosy and sleepy, but pleasant and somewhat sentimental because of the old music playing in the background. Hits from the past like pre-war tangos and communist-era Polish beats can be heard, and add to the authentic feel of the place. Also, the scrumptious potato pancakes merit special attention — don’t leave without trying them!
Address: plac Wszystkich Świętych 10, 31-004 Kraków, Poland.
Phone number: +48 12 430 21 56
Grab yourself a hot bowl of soup at Ambasada Zupy
This new place serves up delicious soups — both Polish and international. The prices are good, the interior is pleasant, and the service, friendly. This is a great place to check out when all that you’re looking for is a good, nutritious lunch to fuel up for a day of exploring the town. Additionally, this is a great place when you need somewhere to just sit and think, or to people-watch, as there is ample seating by the windows that overlook a busy street.
Address: Mostowa 2, 31-061 Kraków, Poland.
Phone number: +48 793 570 828
This classic Polish restaurant serves some great soups, dumplings, potato pancakes, and other local delicacies. From Monday to Friday, a two-course menu of the day is set at a very affordable price. The place is usually filled at lunchtime with students and employees from nearby offices. Set in the heart of Kazimierz, a quiet, relaxed part of the city, Kuchnia u Doroty is the perfect spot to grab a bite to eat before or after sightseeing.
Address: Augustiańska 4, 31-064 Kraków, Poland.
Phone number: +48 517 945 338
Amazing food + amazing people = The Best. Day. Ever.
For those who like to take their sweet time eating, Hummus Amamamusi is definitely worth a visit because of the inspiring atmosphere and the spirit of the place. They have a wide variety of fresh handmade dishes, hummus, vegetables, and delicious, freshly brewed coffee on hand at all times. The owners take the time to prepare your food in front of you and have conversations about any topic you can think of — just the way people in Krakow like it.
Address: Meiselsa 4, Kraków, Poland.
Phone Number: +48 533 306 288
It seems as though street art in Krakow was always a rather spontaneous phenomenon, as murals or slogans that appeared in the city were mainly political or social in nature, and served as a kind of protest song or a form of rebellion against the communist regime, or post-communist reality.
There has been a big change in recent years, however, which was mainly due to local activists associating themselves with different festivals and projects. The most important being ArtBoom Festival, which has a main objective of improving the quality of public space through art, and the Festival of Jewish Culture, which aims to preserve Krakow’s Jewish residents’ history through art and cultural events. It is also worth mentioning that the project ‘101 Murals for Krakow’ was put together by Krakow street artists who created the mural by bringing together multi-format paintings and connecting them with urban, historical, and architectural contexts of the different districts of the city. The activities of the mentioned groups are primarily visible in two districts of Krakow: Kazimierz and Podgórze.
There are definitely lots of creative murals that will make you stop and wonder!
We can talk about the facts all we want, but nothing compares to seeing something yourself! If you take just a short walk around the city you’ll be able to observe that the visual art in Krakow is a lot more than just third string to architecture and painting. We’ll start off in the Kazimierz District, where the murals mainly focus on the Jewish history in the area. While wandering around, make sure to check out our suggestions on the best pieces of visual art!
This mural pays tribute to the Bosak Family
This black and white mural is located at 3 Bawol Square, and is done in the art nouveau style. It was created by the Israeli group, Broken Fingaz, for the 24th Jewish Culture Festival to honour the memory of the Bosak Family, who lived in this area until the creation of the Kraków Ghetto in 1941, amidst the German occupation of Poland during World War II.
Merging two different worlds through art
This mural was created by Marcin Wierzchowski, and is visible on the wall of the Galicia Jewish Museum on Dajwór Street. The inspiration behind the mural draws from the Jewish community in two cities: pre-war Kraków and modern Jerusalem. The huge menorah in the middle of the painting helps depict the clear link between these two distant worlds.
The Mural Judah was made by the Israeli artist Pil Peled. It is also a black-and-white work that was presented during the Jewish Festival in 2013. It is an interesting portrait of a child with a lion face above it, and according to the artist, is a symbol of the Jewish nation, and the constant fight of every child to become an adult and to overcome the everyday fears and problems of leading a responsible life.
The emotion is all in the eyes!
The mural at Joseph Street is a completely new art piece as it was only introduced in 2016. It portrays various people that are associated with the district: King Kazimierz the Great and his Jewish lover, Esterka; Prince Joseph II, who became the patron of this area during Austrian times; the architect of the district, Karol Knaus; and Helena Rubinstein, the Jewish queen of cosmetics who lived in Kazimierz before WWII.
Apart from the four must-see murals mentioned above, there are plenty of others in the area — both in the Kazimierz and Podgórze districts (which we’ll talk about in another post!). In the meantime, check these murals out if you get a chance, or learn a little more on our new Urban Adventures tour in Krakow, the Markets and Flavours of Krakow, which is available Mondays to Fridays from April to October.
Ice baths, fish scales, and other quirky Polish New Year’s traditionsNew Year’s traditions in Poland are packed with superstition, all with the goal of making the coming year more prosperous than the last. Unfortunately, over time, many of the country’s older folk customs have faded into oblivion and aren’t as commonly celebrated as they once were — but that doesn’t mean they can’t still be found, if you know where to look (hint: leave the city and head to the countryside for time-honoured traditions).
Perhaps the biggest, most common tradition is a massive New Year’s Eve dinner. At family tables, expect to find huge, homemade loaves of bread and cake, as well as some meat and cabbage with peas. In local traditions, it’s important to eat a lot in order to have successful future in the year ahead — you don’t want to let hunger come to the house.
dinner
How much dinner can you eat?
In some regions, there is also a custom of washing the whole body before dinner, with a big bowl of icy water poured over you (imagine doing this with a temperature of about -5 degrees Celsius). At the bottom of the bowl, there will be a silver coin that must stay untouched, resting atop the head of the person who took this adventurous shower. The belief is that it will bring riches for the next year (if you are still alive after practicing this, of course).
If ice showers aren’t your thing, you could also save a few scales from the carp that’s traditionally eaten at Christmas Eve. The Christmas carp tradition is also practiced in several neighbouring countries, such as Slovakia and the Czech Republic, and true custom says you should keep the carp alive, swimming in your bathtub, until it’s time to kill it for the family dinner. (Many modern Poles now choose to buy ready-to-eat carp, which makes bathing in the days leading up to Christmas far easier.) Everyone keeps a few of the fish’s scales in their wallets over the next 12 months to encourage good fortune. Or, if fish doesn’t strike you as a lucky symbol, you can skip the scales altogether and instead have a slice of poppy seed cake (makowiec) — it’s said to bring you as much money as there are poppy seeds in the cake.
In some villages, straw is the star of New Year’s traditions. Some locals wrap fruit trees with straw, to protect them from the devil and to ensure a good harvest in the coming year. In the north of Poland, locals have a custom of burning straw in front of their houses, which is to symbolise leaving behind all the worries and sorrows of the passing year. Or, you could just do as the kids do and throw corn and peas at each other — all in the name of luck and money for the new year, of course.
Stretching beyond New Year’s and into carnival time, young local men travel around town as carollers (kolednicy), visiting houses while dressed in strange costumes and acting out scenes from the birth of Christ or singing Christmas carols. Locals are usually happy to invite these performers under their roof, as it is believed that any gift or money given to them in gratitude for the show will turn into something better during the next year. Carollers are always a good sign, bringing abundance, prosperity, and peace.
Raise a cheer to a new year! | Photo by Tomasz Klimek
But in the cities, the last day of the year is quite different, without the country traditions mentioned above. At the beginning of the 20th century, people in Poland started to celebrate the turning of the year with loud and joyful gatherings filled with dancing, singing, and eating. Today, in all the major cities, you’ll find New Year’s Eve concerts, dinners, and balls, including many free city-organised events in public parks and squares. In our beloved Krakow, for example, the biggest stage is usually at the Main Market, although this year there will be a slight change in this tradition; instead, there will be three different events in three different squares of the city: at the Main Market like always, but also at the Main Market of Podgórze district and, for the first time in history, close to the People’s Theatre in the Nowa Huta district (a fascinating Socialist-Realist neighbourhood on the east side of Krakow). Detailed information is available on the city website. Despite the new venues, the nature of the celebration will be the same as always, and exactly at midnight, residents and visitors will hear from Wawel Hill the deep, booming sound of the biggest historical bell, the Sigismund Bell (named for the king who commissioned it in the 16th century).
Just like all over the world, in Poland there is the tradition of watching a special fireworks display and drinking plenty of champagne, but some people also prefer a more subdued New Year’s. Many locals want to escape the hustle and bustle, and so for them, it’s quite typical to leave the city and go to the mountains, to spend the last night of the year resting from everyday life.
The important thing to remember is that, in Poland, there is no rule for the 1st of January. For us, it’s important to just do what you really like to do, as the folk traditions say that the entire coming year will be like its very first day. (I personally would like to spend the first day somewhere on the road and have high hopes that the magical tradition will come true and my backpack will be with me often in 2017!)
From here in Krakow, I wish you a Happy New Year, and may all your dreams come true — especially the travel ones! See you somewhere on the way!
10 ways to stay warm when it’s winter in KrakowSure, it’s chilly, but winter in Krakow can actually be quite pleasant. The streets and squares, covered with a white blanket of snow, are magical and unforgettable. And there are local experiences that are simply best enjoyed when it’s cold outside. So if you’ve resisted visiting Poland because of low temperatures, and even if you just really, really dislike cold weather, then this article is for you. As a local, I’ve happily survived more than one winter in Krakow, and I know how to warm up in our city so you don’t even notice the chill anymore.
Every year for the whole of December, there is a huge Christmas Market at the city’s Rynek Gówny, or Main Square. It is a place for admiring and buying handmade Krakow gifts, listening to the Christmas carols, and seeing beautiful winter decorations. It’s also a great place to eat and drink. Look for big brown barrels with the yellow sign reading “grzaniec galicyjski” (mulled wine) and grab a drink with the locals. This special winter wine is served hot, and is very aromatic due to the addition of honey and a mix of spices like cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom.
Winter is so chilly here that we’ve been forced to add to the regular hot wine already known in many other countries — and that something is hot beer. It is sold all over Krakow, but probably the best time to try it is while wandering around the Kazimierz district. In the very middle of this quarter you will find a relatively small market called the New Square (Plac Nowy), which is literally surrounded by pubs, clubs, and restaurants. My favourite one is Kolory (Colours), but you will find equally tasty hot beer at Alchemia or Singer.
Seems that we are quite devoted drinkers! (We do drink non-alcoholic beverages, too, but it seems when it’s time to warm up, there are a lot of boozy selections.) In many restaurants, you can order a strong honey drink or some vodka, which is often served at the end of the meal to aid digestion (plus stomach-warming). If you would rather drink than eat, the best place to step into is a liquor shop called Szambelan (Chamberlain) located at 9 Bracka Street, just a stone’s throw from the Main Square of Krakow. They have a huge selection of alcoholic tinctures made according to old Polish recipes. Also, you’ll be surprised by the number of different flavours and range of alcohol content (from 20% up to 50% spirit).
Raise a cheer to a new year! | Photo by Tomasz Klimek
For abstainers and gourmands we have another great proposal: hot chocolate. The best hot choccolate in the heart of Krakow is at the Wedel chocolate fountain at 46 Main Square, or in the small café at Wawel Hill. There is also a great option in the Kazimierz quarter, where Satori Café at 25 Jozefa Street invites you to chill out and try some very thick and very tasty chocolate served with chili.
Soup is something Polish people always miss when they’re travelling abroad. In Poland, it’s an obligatory first course at lunch or dinner, and is always present on the local table. We eat soup everyday, the whole year round, but in the wintertime it is more appreciated that ever. You can order soup in every single Polish restaurant, but if you want to make it a local experience, go to Polakowski restaurant, located at All Saints Square (Plac Wszystkich Świętych), or jump into the small bar Zamieszanie (Confusion) at 20 Rajska Street.
hot soup
If eating and drinking is not enough for you to warm up or you have already eaten too much, then move your body and come along with locals to the ice rink. There are many of them in the city, but the easiest to find are located in front of the big shopping mall Krakow’s Gallery (Galeria Krakowska) and at Blonia Park, both about a 10- to 15-minute walk from the Main Square. You can bring your skates with you or rent on-site for about 10 zlotys per hour (EUR 3). Being there in the evening is magical — just picture it, skating happily in the darkness while listening to Christmas carols or pop songs in the background.
There are a lot of fascinating places in Krakow, but among them the most mysterious ones are, without a doubt, the four mounds. These are symbolic graves of famous Polish personalities, and there are at least two reasons to visit them in winter. First of all, you’ll need to climb a bit (which means warming up!), and secondly, there is always a beautiful panoramic view from the top — and that view is lovely when there’s snow blanketing everything. The oldest mound was made around the 7th century to commemorate a legendary founder of the city, Prince Krak. The second, also quite historic, belongs to his daughter, Wanda. The others are much younger, but also worth visiting. They are connected with Polish historical heroes Kościuszko and Pilsudski, who were fighting for our independence in 18th and 20th centuries. Their mounds are both located in the middle of a beautiful forest (Las Wolski), which you can reach from the city centre by public transport.
Wake up early (like 5am early) and join some locals for a run along the banks of the Vistula River. You’ll be rewarded with the most spectacular view of a Krakow sunrise while working up a sweat at the same time.
There are thousand of sport clubs and facilities in the city, so you won’t have any problems finding your favourite activity while you’re in town. I personally love the Contact sports club (Kontakt), located at 4 Szpitalna Street. It offerrs a huge variety of (not only sport) activities and has an amazing international team of people working together to create the unique atmosphere of the place.
Not in the mood for sport? Don’t worry, you can still warm up with less effort — just go to the sauna! There is a nice one, which belong to Krakow’s Mining and Metallurgy Academy at 4 Buszka Street, about a 15-minute walk from the city centre. The sauna there is open daily from 10am to 11pm, but it is always best to call ahead to reserve a time (+48 12 617 48 41) — that’s because, since Polish people aren’t so fond of sitting in such hot places for long periods, it happens quite often that there is nobody to open the facility if there are no reservations. Of course there are plenty of other saunas in the city, but as they are situated usually in hotels and are therefore much less local than this one.
Forget the folk songs; in Poland, locals dance the tangoThe annual Krakus Aires Festival celebrates Krakow’s favourite dance | Photo by Meg Skoczylas
On any given night in Krakow, there’s a milonga happening somewhere.
The sultry tango may have its roots in Argentina and Uruguay, but at some point the dance worked its way from South America across the Atlantic, and landed in the most unlikeliest of places: Communist Poland. And while most tourists who visit are convinced the country’s national dance is the polka or the krakowiak, and that locals have been dancing these moves since their childhoods, I’m here to tell you that’s simply not the case.
Polka is actually a folk dance from the Czech Republic and only some children here in Poland know how to perform it properly. Krakowiak, on the other hand, is a Polish dance — but to be honest, nowadays it is much better known by Polish immigrants in the United States than by actual citizens of Krakow. Of course, you can easily book to see a Polish folk show at a fancy restaurant in the city centre, from the reception desk of any Krakow hotel. But it’s not a dance that locals typically practice.
So, what do we dance? Well, everything from salsa to afrodance, and flamenco to classical saloon dances like the waltz or cha-cha. But without a doubt, it’s the tango that is the number one hero. You’ll see locals dancing in parks, on street corners or in courtyards, and there are a plenty of tango schools and events. There are milongas (tango parties) organised daily both in clubs and in private homes. Krakow even has its own tango hotel — it’s small and centrally located, beautifully decorated, and perfect for travellers who like good coffee, stunning surroundings and constant tango music in their room.
There’s no official answer as to why tango is so wildly popular in Poland, but I do believe it has something to do with the fight for freedom during the country’s Communist era. While the dance was popular even at the beginning of 20th century, its growth coincided with post WWII Poland. At a time when everything was grey and forbidden, the tango, often referred to by Poles as ‘the sad song of the soul’ or ‘a sexy protest,’ was a way to show opposition to the cruel, strict policies of the communists. After all, could there be anything more offensive to the regime than romantically minded, colourfully dressed couples dancing happily in clandestine basements all over city?
Tango even runs deep within my own personal life, as it’s how I met my husband. Many years ago, we were both visiting a mutual Argentinian friend, who was living in Lisbon at the time. And during our first conversation, we realised there was a common topic between us. It was, of course, tango. Stefano used to dance it in Italy, I in Poland, and in Lisbon we had our first dance together, atop one of those panoramic points of the city during a summer sunset. No big surprise it was enough to fall in love, right?
Monika, her husband and the tango | Photo by Krzysztof Racon
To experience the true heart of tango in Krakow, it’s best to come in early May for the annual Krakus Aires Tango Festival, the biggest tango event in town. According to its creators, it is a special bridge between the eastern and western worlds of tango, and a chance to explore the city by dancing it, with maestros from many countries.
The festival features workshops and shows, and in the evenings there are even more milongas than usual all over the city. The experiences are amazing, from dancing the tango in the huge chapel of the Wieliczka Salt Mine, deep underground, to trying your steps inside Slowacki’s Theatre, one of the most beautifully decorated buildings of the city.
If you can’t come during the festival, you’ll still have no trouble finding a place to dance. There are several different schools of tango in Krakow — one of which is TangoVirri at 20 Rajska Street, run by our friend Michal Gabrys. Our whole Krakow Urban Adventures team loves to meet there and chat while we wait for the afternoon dance classes and milongas to begin. An alternate option that I also really like Tangonuevo at 13 Westerplatte street.
There’s a tango event happening somewhere in the city every night of the week, so if you’re visiting Krakow, we suggest you forget the polka performances and instead experience a night of tango. Note that all the places listed below are for people who already know at least the basic steps.
Monday:
Milonga Loca, 51a Miodowa Street
Milonga time: 9pm – 1am
Entrance fee: PLN 5 (EUR 1,5)
Tuesday:
Practice in Tangonuevo, 13/3 Westerplatte Street
Practice time: 8pm – 11pm
Entrance fee: PLN 10 (EUR 2,5)
Wednesday:
Piwnica pod Baranami , 27 Rynek Główny (Main Market Square)
Practice and milonga time: 8pm – 11pm
Free entrance
Thursday:
Milonga El Abrazo, 1 Plac Świętego Ducha
Milonga time: 9pm – midnight
Entrance fee: PLN 5 (EUR 1,5)
Friday:
Milonga Infierno in Tangonuevo, 13/3 Westerplatte Street
Milonga time: 10pm – whenever!
Entrance fee: PLN 10 (EUR 2,5)
Saturday:
Milonga Paradise in TangoVirri, 20 Rajska Street
Practice time: 6:30pm – 8pm
Milonga time 8pm – 11pm
Entrance fee: PLN 5 (EUR 1,5); homemade cake and tea/coffee included!
and (every two weeks)
Milonga in Por Fiesta Club , 17 Warszawska Street
Milonga time: 9:30pm – 1am
Entrance fee: PLN 5 (EUR 1,5)
Sunday:
Panta Rei in Kontakt, 4 Szpitalna Street
Milonga time: 9pm – 1pm
Entrance fee: PLN 5 (EUR 1,5)
and
Milonga Luna in Cabaret Club, 5 Krakowska Street
Milonga time: 8pm – 11pm
Entrance fee: PLN 10 (EUR 2,5)
If you want to experience your own tango adventure (maybe with a bit of romance!) in Krakow, we can help you out. There are numerous accessible tango schools — if you want to participate in a lesson, send an email to info@krakowurbantours.com. We can help you to organise a private lesson or tell you where to go for a group lesson taught in English. It’s a great and totally unforgettable way to meet locals. Not sure yet if you’re ready to tackle the tango? We’ll leave you with these old tango lyrics sung in Polish to get your feet in the mood.
Done all the major sights in Krakow, but still have a little time to kill? That’s where our locals come in handy. Check out these tips for the best things to do in Krakow, local style!
The Krak Mound is the oldest man-made monument of Krakow, and is said to probably be a symbolic tomb of Prince Krak (the legendary founder of our city, thanks to whom we named it Krakow) and was built around the 7th century by the prince’s loyal subordinates after his death. But some other scientists are convinced the construction is actually part of a huge astronomical observatory, made by Slavic tribes. Still others are trying to connect it with the pre-Christian cult of the Sun and the Oak Tree. No matter the real story, there is something magical here. From the top of the Krak Mound you can see the whole city — not only famous sites like the Wawel Castle and Wawel Cathedral, but also the whole huge area of the Nowa Huta communist district in the distance, and, situated at the bottom of the hill, the Podgórze district, which, together with the old quarry, was used by Steven Spielberg in Schindler’s List. (There are now fragments of film props hidden deep in the bushes). The whole place is extraordinary and makes you feel like more like an explorer than an ordinary tourist.
To get here, take the tram from the city centre to the right bank of the Vistula river, and get off at Cmentarz Podgórski (Podgórze Cemetery). Continue for a few minutes on foot towards the green area — the Krak Mound will be visible in the distance. Don’t forget to take your camera! Good walking shoes are also handy, especially after rain or snowfall, as it can be slippery while climbing the hill.
Go by tram from the city centre to the Plac Centralny (Central Square) and walk among monumental buildings to admire the place where time stopped many years ago; visit the ideal communist city, the original gift of Josef Stalin for our country.
Step back into Communist times | Photo by Krakow Urban Tours
Almost everything in this neighbourhood feels like a piece of the 1950s, when the district was created around a big steel factory, given to Poland by Stalin, the “friend of the Polish nation.” You will see many fully equipped housing units for factory workers, bunkers made to protect citizens against an American atom attack, old tank and restaurants (which are still serving vodka with herrings or vegetable salad). The only thing missing is the huge monument of Lenin, once visible at the main avenue but removed after the end of the Communist regime. One extra bonus about the removed statue is that today, at Christmas, we have put a big, beautifully decorated Christmas tree in that spot.
A short walk from the city centre is the Botanical Garden, situated at 27 Kopernika Street (15 minutes walking from the Main Market Square of Krakow). Forget about the outside world and surround yourself with nature of all kinds and varieties. Bring your camera and snap a few photos in the greenhouse, visit one of many themed exhibitions, or just sit with your favourite book at the bank of a picturesque lake and recharge your batteries.
The garden is a huge green area with more than 5,000 kinds of plants from around the world, and even though it’s located very close to the busy city centre, it is completely quiet.
Note that the garden is only open during the summer season from late April to late October. Ticket prices are PLN 9/EUR 2.5.
Usually people are in the Zabłocie district only to visit the famous Schindler’s Factory Museum, but believe me, this place has a lot of other things to offer. In addition to this widely known WWII museum, there is also MOCAK (Museum of Contemporary Art in Krakow) — a great, modern building filled with a huge collection, including temporary exhibitions and interesting lectures. Close to the main entrance of the museum you will find a small, friendly café (so different from the awful one in the nearby Schindler’s Museum), as well as an amazing bookshop and well-equipped art library that’s really worth visiting.
To reach the museum, go by tram to Plac Bohaterów Getta Square (Heroes of Ghetto tram stop) and continue on foot about 10 minutes following city signs to MOCAK (Lipowa 4 Street) or Schindler’s Factory museums.
The Zabłocie district is full of cool murals and quirky pop-up offices | Photo by Krakow Urban Tours
The Zabłocie district is also full of old, neglected factories, which have been changed recently into alternative bars or lofts, walls for imaginative murals, and quirky offices where it seems every single day there is a new start-up on the horizon! It’s a great place to feel the vibrant energy of a young, new generation of Poles born in a democratic country.
For the best food shopping in Krakow, we recommend the Stary Kleparz Market, located very close to the Old Town, just north of St. Florian’s Gate, between Matejko’s Square and Dluga Street.
Having run since the 18th century, this is the oldest and most colourful market, where farmers bring fresh fruit and vegetables to sell daily, and for quite reasonable prices, too. You will always find locals here looking for good bargains. Try some samples, such as fresh mountain cheeses: oscypek and bundz, famous Polish sour cucumbers or sour croute, locally made sweets. As there are some expats in the city, Kleparz also offers small shops selling typical Hungarian, Italian and even Arabic foods. Do not miss this place as they have great decor, good prices and fresh coffee that smells like heaven.
Kazimierz is a busy district known by tourists for its well-preserved Jewish monuments, but also among locals because of its lively bars, pubs and art galleries that are seemingly all over the place.
Can you spot real amber from fakes? | Photo by Krakow Urban Tours
Here you’ll find here colourful murals and wall paintings, small restaurants and interesting art galleries showing exhibits by local artists. My favourite right now is the Qubic Art Gallery, located at 20 Dajwor Street. It’s run by a charming woman named Malgorzata Stawniak, who knows everything about Polish “gold” — also known as amber. You can listen to her amber stories while drinking coffee and eating homemade cake, as well as admire (and shop for!) beautiful jewellery made by her. (Pssst, you can also meet her on our Made In Krakow tour, which takes you into the shops of local Krakow artisans!)
With a bit of luck you can also attend some good jazz or blues concert in the same area, but there is no info about it anywhere so keep that tip for yourself as a #localsknow secret…
Krakow Urban Tours
Walking through Krakow is like strolling through your very own open air museum. Around every corner you’ll find something of interest, whether it be a beautiful building or a cool food truck selling traditional Polish fare. Get to know the local way of life in this gorgeous city on a Krakow tour filled with history, culture, food, and even a bit of local lingo if you’re looking to learn it!